How to Buy a Used Snowblower: Smart Winter Savings

Buying a used snowblower can save hundreds while still keeping your driveway clear all winter.

This guide shows you how to match the machine to your property and climate, inspect it like a pro, and avoid costly surprises—so you get value and reliability without overspending.

Match the machine to your property and climate

Start by sizing the snowblower to what you actually clear: driveway length, number of parking spots, walkways, and whether your surface is paved or gravel. Consider typical storms (light and frequent vs. occasional deep dumps), wind drifting, and the plow berm left at the curb.

Know the basic types: single-stage (light, nimble, great for smaller paved areas and up to moderate snowfall), two-stage (auger plus impeller for heavier, deeper snow and end-of-driveway crud), and three-stage (adds an accelerator for very heavy or wet snow). Clearing widths usually range from 18–22 inches (single-stage) to 24–30 inches+ (two- and three-stage). For a quick primer on stages and capacities, see this snow blower buying guide and overview from Consumer Reports.

Power sources: most used models are gas-powered, but you’ll find some corded and battery units. Battery snow blowers have improved and can be a good fit for short driveways and lighter snow in milder climates, but runtime drops in very cold temps; if you’re considering used battery models, price in the cost of a replacement pack.

Set a realistic budget (purchase + upkeep)

Think total cost of ownership, not just the sticker price. A used single-stage can often be found for less than a high-end shovel, while solid two-stage machines can offer big savings over new when well maintained. Build a small maintenance fund to prevent little issues from becoming big ones.

Typical asking ranges vary by region and condition, but as a ballpark: single-stage used units often list in the low hundreds; mid-size two-stage machines commonly list in the mid to high hundreds; premium brands in excellent condition can command more.
Routine upkeep costs: oil and plug ($15–$30), new belts ($15–$40 each), skid shoes and scraper bar ($20–$60), shear pins ($5–$15), fuel stabilizer ($5–$10).
Potential bigger-ticket items: starter motor, carburetor, battery pack (for cordless), friction disc or transmission components.

Where to shop for a used snowblower

Local small-engine shops: Often sell reconditioned units with a short warranty and support. Ask what was serviced and if parts are readily available.
Online marketplaces (Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, OfferUp): Search within a drivable radius, set alerts for your target models, and act quickly on well-priced listings.
Rental yards and municipal auctions: You may find well-maintained equipment rotated out on schedule. Check service logs if available.
Estate and garage sales: Potential for lightly used machines; bring basic tools and be ready to test-start.
Certified refurb or outlet programs: Some brands and retailers occasionally offer factory-refurbished gear; inventory varies seasonally.

Timing matters: late spring and summer can yield better prices and more negotiating room; the first big storm often spikes demand and prices.

Pre-purchase inspection checklist

Meet in daylight, on a flat surface, with safe ventilation for running the engine. Bring a flashlight, paper towel, spark plug wrench (optional), and a small screwdriver.

Serial plate and model: Photograph the model and serial number. Look up parts support on the manufacturer site (e.g., Toro, Ariens, Honda). Avoid orphaned models with hard-to-find parts.
Recalls: Check the CPSC recall database for the model or engine family.
Engine health: Cold start is best—ask the seller not to pre-warm it. It should start within a few pulls (or one electric start), idle steadily, and respond to throttle without hesitation. Excess smoke, fuel leaks, or strong raw-gas smell are red flags.
Compression and oil: Pull the cord slowly—firm resistance is good. Check oil level and color; milky oil can indicate water intrusion.
Auger, impeller, and housing: With the engine off, inspect for bent flights, cracks, or excessive rust. Spin the impeller by hand (if accessible) and listen for scraping.
Belts and drive system: Remove the belt cover if allowed; look for cracking, glazing, or fraying. In friction-disc drives, inspect the rubber disc for wear and contamination.
Shear pins/bolts: Confirm correct shear pins are installed (not standard bolts). Incorrect hardware can damage the gearbox.
Skid shoes and scraper bar: Heavily worn parts mean more expense and poor clearing; replacements are straightforward but factor into price.
Chute and controls: Verify smooth chute rotation and deflector adjustment from the handles. Cables shouldn’t bind or stick.
Wheels/tires or tracks: Check tire tread, cracks, and inflation; inspect track tension and condition on tracked models.
Safety features: Auger/drive should stop when you release the handles. Test the kill switch. Confirm the key and any safety interlocks work.
Accessories: Electric start cord, extra shear pins, snow cab, drift cutters, or heated grips add value.

Test-run it like you’ll use it

You want to see the drive engage, the auger/impeller run smoothly, and the chute throw a consistent stream (use a safe medium like slush or packed snow if available). If it’s dry out, at least verify engagement, noises, and throttle response.

Engagement: Squeeze auger and drive levers separately; feel for slipping or delayed response.
Gears and speeds: Run through all forward and reverse settings. Jerky motion can indicate friction-disc or transmission issues.
Throw and clogging: In real snow, heavy clogging suggests dull auger edges, worn scraper bar, slow impeller, or wet snow beyond the unit’s capability.
Noise and vibration: Grinding, squealing, or excessive vibration deserves a price cut—or a pass.
Electric start: Verify 120V plug-in starters and battery starters (if present) function reliably.

Common red flags (walk away or negotiate hard)

Seller can’t demonstrate a start, or the unit was “just running” but is now cold and won’t fire.
Oil contamination, fuel leaks, cracked carburetor bowl, or chewed wiring.
Bent auger flights, damaged impeller blades, or a cracked gearbox housing.
Missing shrouds, hacked wiring, wrong hardware used in shear-pin locations.
Extensive rust-through on the housing or around mounting points.

Model research: reliability and parts

Before handing over cash, spend five minutes on your phone to confirm parts are available and priced reasonably. Search the exact model number plus terms like “auger belt,” “skid shoe,” and “friction disc.” Check community feedback and professional reviews—Consumer Reports and retailer reviews are good starting points. If you’re shopping older premium models (e.g., Ariens, Toro, Honda), parts support is often strong and there’s a vibrant aftermarket; very old or big-box-only models may be more hit-or-miss.

Also note engine brand and type (Briggs & Stratton, Honda GX, LCT, etc.). Availability of carb kits, ignition coils, and starters can make or break long-term value. Many brands publish parts diagrams online, which is helpful for planning maintenance.

Negotiation tips that work

Bring cash and transportation; be polite but ready to walk away.
Point out specific wear items you’ll need to replace (belts, scraper bar) and quote approximate costs. Having parts pages open on your phone strengthens your case.
Offer to close the deal immediately if the seller meets your fair price.
Shop the off-season to avoid bidding wars during snow events.

After you buy: first-service blueprint

Start the season right with a basic refresh—especially if you don’t have maintenance records.

Change engine oil and spark plug; verify correct plug gap and torque.
Drain old fuel; refill with fresh, ethanol-free if available, and add stabilizer. See guidance on fuel care from Briggs & Stratton.
Inspect and adjust belts; replace if cracked or glazed.
Grease fittings, cables, and chute ring as specified in the manual.
Set skid shoes to protect your surface (higher for gravel, lower for smooth pavement) and level the scraper bar.
Keep spare shear pins and a basic toolkit clipped to the handle or in a nearby pouch.
Print or bookmark the owner’s manual and parts diagram for quick reference.

Quick match guide

Small paved driveway + light/moderate snow: Used single-stage can be a great value; prioritize easy maneuvering and good parts support.
Medium/large driveway + heavy or wet snow: Look for a mid-size two-stage with electric start; check belts, friction disc, and auger gearbox carefully.
Steep, long, or drift-prone drives: Consider tracked two-stage for traction; factor in higher parts cost.
Gravel surface: Avoid single-stage (it can throw stones); a two-stage with adjustable skid shoes is safer.

The bottom line

A well-chosen used snowblower can deliver years of dependable service for a fraction of the cost of new. Prioritize fit (property and climate), verify parts support, and run through a thorough inspection and test. With smart timing and a simple maintenance plan, you’ll stretch your budget—and stay ahead of the next storm.